Assimilation

Today I am wearing leather pants.

Sure, I’ve worn them at home, but only on the occasional evening out. They’re the kind of Saturday night pants that you wouldn’t want to run into your minister wearing because they look just a little too edgy.

But here I am on a Monday morning in a coffee shop wearing black leather pants, and everybody’s doing it. I look no more out of place here than a Patagonia would look in Lexington.

The real kicker is that I’ve been here before, so I should be used to the fashion, right? I took the BUS 180 spring term class last year and spent two weeks growing accustomed to the chic, modern street style that is so commonplace here in Copenhagen, but a year later when packing my bags to return, I second guessed myself. Black outfits were thrown into my duffel, but so were white jeans and colorful dresses, not to mention some yoga pants and several baseball caps. I thought I must have been mistaken – that such a happy country had to have more color. But no, the cheery nature of this country has nothing to do with what color people wear or how blustery the weather gets. It’s just something in the water.

So, I have discovered that even though it is my second time in Denmark, I am going through an adjustment period once again.

This time around I know about the crepe shop and not to mistakenly order the soft ice with chocolate specks in it. I know that the wifi at the hostel is nothing to write home about but that the view from any room on the eleventh floor definitely is.

Assimilating in Copenhagen is probably much easier than it is in other cities. Everyone speaks English here, everyone is quick to point you in the right direction, it’s not actually that big of a city, etc. Even without blonde hair and pale skin, it’s easy to feel at home here – especially if you rent a bike – but there is still some adjustment that takes place every time you travel to a different place. There is a degree of uncertainty about what the next day will hold.

I truly believe that this year, we have the chance to assimilate because we’re here for longer. A month gives you time to find your favorite places to eat and work, as well as enough time to identify places that aren’t worth your time or money. I am excited to live and work in this beautiful city, and I am especially excited to become more than a “tourist.”

Hence, the leather pants.

Cyclophobia

Cyclophobia is the fear of bicycles. Cyclophobia is often caused by a traumatic experience occurring with a bicycle, such as falling off a bicycle or seeing someone crash. I am a survivor of such an incident and am a self-diagnosed cyclophobe. Having fallen off a bicycle, riding down a hill as a 4th grader made bikes lose all of their appeal, despite their essential role in many peoples childhood. Since then, I have seen my fair share of bikes and had plenty of opportunities to ride them, but have managed to avoid them. Living in Copenhagen for close to a week now, avoiding bikes have been difficult for a couple of reasons.

Walking down Strøget yesterday, I saw a sweatshirt printed with a bicycle wheel and “Copenhagen The Bicycle City.” The graphic was certainly appealing and the sweatshirt seemed soft and comfortable, but it spoke more to the ubiquity of bicycles in the city. Bikes are so prevalent and beloved that they choose to represent their city as such. One cannot escape the bikes here in Copenhagen. Infrastructure is built around the bikes; elevated bike lanes, specialized bike routes, bike racks on every street in front of nearly every building, and train cars built to accommodate the bikes. The bikes whirring around are exceptionally intimidating for me, not being accommodated to this atypical type of traffic. While many of the bikers are willing to follow the rules, I have certainly seen them on the sidewalk, if only to turn right. With the bike lanes adjacent to the sidewalks, the cyclists will often come exceptionally close to the sidewalk. Whilst waiting for the cross walk to change, you can feel the breeze of the them whizzing by. After a few close encounters, I try to keep back from the curb.

It’s estimated that 75% of Copenhageners cycle at some point each year. Having discussed the importance of bicycles for transportation in the weeks preceding this trip, I assumed it was simply a convenience issue for local residents. After a week in Copenhagen, I realize that bikes are more of a necessity than anticipated. Walking around in this cold weather, you want to be outside for a short of time as possible. Biking cuts down on the time spent getting from point A to point B, which is essential when the cold wind cuts through your many layers. Not only is biking seemingly the most efficient way of getting around Copenhagen, public transportation is expensive. It seems as though the Copenhagen government wants to do all it can to encourage individuals to bike with the price of these tickets. Additionally, the taxes on vehicles in Denmark are outrageous, making vehicles seem like a luxury. It only makes sense to bike in this city, certainly if you are a resident.

I swore I would not ride a bike while I was in Copenhagen, given our history. Now having spent a week in this city, I am considering otherwise. Bicycles are efficient and seem like a great way to assimilate to the Copenhagen culture. I have been warned that this is not the place to practice cycling, but I might go against my gut on this one.

The Haunting Smell of Smoke

(PS Tried to upload a video to share the excitement after FC København’s first goal, but it would not work. I guess a picture will suffice. )

One thing that I didn’t notice during my last visit here was how the smell of smoke is everywhere and it permeates everything. But just to clarify, it isn’t that people here smoke everywhere, but rather there are specific locations and times where smoking is a common social act. However, the smoking is heavy enough during those times to the point where the smell of smoke clings to my hair and clothing and refuses to leave.

When Emily and I attended our first Alka Superliga (the Danish soccer/football league) on Sunday to watch FC København play FC Midtjylland at the Telia Parken Stadium, I was very excited and caught up in the excitement of the chanting and cheering. Even though, we could not understand a single word of the crowd’s cheering, we had quite a bit of fun. Eventually it got cold and the crowd become rowdier, but we took it all in stride.

However, one thing that neither of us could shake off was the casual smoking by members of the crowd. All around us, we saw people lighting up cigarettes throughout the game. I was shocked by the fact that people could smoke in the stadium. Perhaps it is a common practice elsewhere, but I had never seen smoking in a stadium before. Although the stadium was not indoors, there was quite a few flammable items in the area – the grass, the cardboard holders of Carlsberg beer and paper napkins, just to name a few. Also, second-hand smoking is usually a health concern for people. Given that there were people of all ages and filled stands, I was surprised that there were not stricter regulations on smoking in the stadium. I cannot recall such heavily smoking from the last time I was at the Telia Parken Stadium, which was to see a friendly match two years ago. However, the crowd was also far smaller than the one this time.

As a non-smoker, I am very sensitive and have a low tolerance for the smell of cigarettes and the smoke. The cold air and the smoke was a brutal combination for my lungs. After getting back to Danhostel, I found my coat and hair smelling like smoke. Furthermore, our experiences at the stadium were not the only place where smoking was common. There have been mornings where our floor in Danhostel smelt like smoke (despite it being a non-smoking floor!).

Based upon personal experiences, smoking in the United States tends to be in places more secluded from public spaces and large crowds. However, I did not expect to be so sensitive to the smoke, given that I had grown up in China during a period of time when smoking in public was more widely accepted. Perhaps the smell of smoke is something you become acclimated to and I have lost that after living in the United States for three years? I wonder if the smell of smoke is something I will become used to after four weeks in Copenhagen… ask me again at the end of this trip!

A Casual Sunday Afternoon Soccer Match

On Sunday afternoon, Hermione and I traveled across town to watch an FC Copenhagen soccer match. I played soccer in high school, so I was familiar with the sport and its large, popular presence over here in Europe. Back home, soccer does not have as large of a presence. Sure, we have Major League Soccer, which consists of teams from across the country, and yes, we do get rowdy and boisterous every time the USA participates in the Summer Olympics and The World Cup. However, I knew walking into the stadium that I was about to experience something unique.

As we walked through security, I could hear the crowd roaring and the “booming” of the music blaring throughout the stadium. We found some seats in our section (standing room only, yet ironically enough they had seats in this section…) and immediately had Danish chants flooding our ears. Do I have any idea what they were chanting? Absolutely not. Did that stop me from yelling random grunts and sounds because I wanted to chant too? Nope.

The atmosphere was electric. FC Copenhagen scored the first goal of the game at the seven minute mark and the entire stadium erupted. I could not help but scream and jump too; I had no personal connection to the team, but the excitement and energy from the Danish fans was contagious.

While the fans were great, the stadium was very impressive. I have been to a few Columbus Crew matches in the States, however FC Copenhagen’s stadium seemed to have more “personality”. What I mean by this is that there were pictures of fans hanging on the walls in the stadium. In our section, there were giant still-photos of fans decked out in all black, visibly cheering and showing their excitement for their team.

Naturally, the Carlsberg brand, had sponsorship everywhere. To me, that was one of the neatest aspects of the stadium. A Copenhagen-based company supporting their local soccer club. I understand Carlsberg is a massive company, yet I could not help but think that being the lead sponsor is a great way for them to keep a personal presence in the Copenhagen community.

Ultimately, when the final whistle blew, FC Copenhagen came out victorious by a score of 3-1. On our way out of the stadium, we stopped by the club shop to take a gander at the merchandise. That shop had everything. Does your kid want an FC Copenhagen themed birthday party? Good thing the shop has themed plates, cups, napkins, cupcake holders, and any other item you could want. Back to school shopping? Why not get some Club pencils and pens. Of course, the shop was filled with team sponsored Adidas gear. My favorite article of clothing was the little kid jerseys, simply because I thought they were adorable.

Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my first European soccer match. Additionally, if you are wondering what it is like to watch a soccer game with me, please see below some remarks I made throughout the game.

“I hope we are seated with the rowdy crowd. I love me some good old-fashioned, sports-loving rowdiness.”

“I really like the neon socks of the purple team…oh wait those are the ‘bad guys’ just kidding I don’t like them anymore GO COPENHAGEN!”

“Booooooooooooooo! Yeah, yeah booooo I have no idea why I’m booing but boooooo!”

“Uh oh, man down. Oh wait, two guys are down” (players start shoving each other) “Hermione, if there is a crowd-clearing brawl we are going down there and joining.”

“GGGGGOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!”

I Want to Ride my Bicycle, I Want to Ride my Bike

Today, Daniel and I went to the bike shop recommended to us by DIS. It is located about three minutes away from DIS and is pretty easy to find. Pro-tip: the shop will not show up if you try to google it, but you can find the address on the DIS website.

I don’t know exactly what I was expecting when we arrived at the bike shop, but it certainly wasn’t a tiny shop in a cement basement with a line of bikes chained together outside the door. In hindsight, that all seems perfectly reasonable, but at the time, I’m honestly just glad I didn’t go alone because it was a bit intimidating. All was well once we met with the man running the shop. He was extremely helpful and kind, as most of the Danish are as long as you’re respectful.

Something else about the trip was unexpected too. I thought surely it would be a bit costly to rent a bike because of insurance, locks, maybe cleaning supplies. I don’t know. I’m definitely not all that familiar with what serious, everyday biking actually entails. I was expecting maybe twenty-five dollars a week. I was way off. It was only forty dollars for four weeks, less than half of what I thought. I was pleasantly surprised and excited to try out my new wheels.

I grew up riding my bike, or my horse honestly, around my old neighborhood in west Texas, but riding a bike in the busy streets of Copenhagen is obviously a whole different ball game. I had completely forgotten about hand signals, so I found this refresher very helpful. http://abcstudentbikes.dk/source/files/media/dis-biking-handbook.pdf

In case you don’t want to read the link—right arm stretched out beside you warns other cyclists that you intend to turn right, right arm bent so that you forearm is parallel to your body and your fingers point at the ground warns them that you will stop, and to turn left you must dismount your bike and cross the street on foot at the nearest crosswalk.

Daniel and I made it back to the hostel without any real excitement, which is a good thing. We locked up the bikes by wrapping our chains around the our bike’s back wheels and bike frames, just as we were told to do earlier at the shop. But as we walked into Danhostel, Daniel noticed that I’d left my backpack on my bike. Thankfully no one had taken it in the previous thirty seconds, but it certainly made me wary about forgetting to check my bike’s basket.

If any of the first years happen to read this: first, get ready because Copenhagen is a fantastic city to visit; second, I highly recommend getting a bike while you are here. Even though I’ve only had mine for one day, I am already loving the convenience of being able to get basically anywhere in the city center within ten minutes. Apparently, wearing black isn’t the only thing I’m going to copy about the Danish way of life. It looks like I’ll need to air up my old bike tires when I get home.

Freedom on Steroids

One day before my freshman year, I was suddenly struck by the notion that I was going to almost complete freedom for the first time in my life once I stated at Washington and Lee. While I still had some obligations, such as class and swim practice, I could stay out as late as I wanted, eat whatever I felt like, or even just up and leave Lexington without anyone to tell me otherwise. *Disclaimer to all reading- I was and have been a very good student and never felt the need to really test the limits of my freedom, but knowing I could has always excited me! 

For the first three years of my college experience, I never thought that I could ever get or want more freedom than what Washington and Lee already gave me. Clearly I was wrong. Today, as my classmates and I were reflecting on our experience in Copenhagen so far, we came to realize that the freedom we have here is so much more than we ever expected- it is almost literally “freedom on steroids.”

While we work each day on our individual projects, our two professors are back on campus teaching another class. That means that we have no adults here to structure our days. We get to make our own work schedules, set our own hours and locations, and travel around the city or even the country as much as we want. Our only real task is to finish our projects by the deadline.

To almost any other college student, this sounds unreal. How can you possibly be trusted to do your work? Why don’t you just leave it for the last minute and go travel for four weeks? How is that even allowed?

My honest answer to all of these questions is that Washington and Lee and its honor system, have been preparing me for this moment since I first set foot on campus. While our class is all under the impression that we want to have fun this trip, our first and foremost goal is to produce the best projects we possible can.

Yes, we can travel as much as we want, but both groups decided on their own (with some advice from our professors) to only take this upcoming weekend off. My group decided to work every week day we are here, and even some weekends, starting at 9:30 a.m. and ending whenever we accomplish our tasks for the day.

Other students at other schools in the same situation might abuse this freedom, but my class seems to view this as the ultimate challenge. We get to prove to everyone that yes, you can leave a group of 8 unchaperoned students in a foreign county for four weeks and have them create and produce amazing projects by the end of it. Washington and Lee has taught us what we have to do to get a task done, so much so that we even when given the gift of freedom on steroids, we still chose to work until the job is done.

 

Feeling Comfortable

Cole and I enjoying a sprinkle ice cream cone which I devoured in less than two minutes.

Going to Denmark, I really had no expectations. Before the trip, I didn’t meet anyone that went to Copenhagen previously so I wasn’t sure what to expect. I also think I didn’t had any time to develop expectations considering the sheer amount of work I had to do before arriving. I decided to make the poor decision and leave Saturday right after finals to go to Munich, giving myself no time to pack. I ultimately had to rush out of my apartment and drive to Dulles International Airport. I only began to feel relaxed when the plane took off. Since I went to Munich first, I only really began to form expectations for Germany on the first flight. Munich also took away the original shock of being in Europe that I would have expected to get when arriving here. I was originally overwhelmed when arriving in Germany by myself but the few days there made me ready for my stay in Europe. I noticed how comfortable I really was with being in Europe when I was repeatedly asked for directions by Germans. Although I wasn’t too much of a help to the people who did ask me, it made me realize that I was walking confidently around the city even though I had only been there a couple of days. This made my arrival into Copenhagen feel oddly relaxing, as I felt comfortable with my ability to navigate around Europe (with the help of Google Maps of course).

The only expectation I formed was from watching the video talking about Denmark and its current ranking as the happiest country in the world. Although the people seem nice I don’t really get the impression that they are any happier than anywhere else I have been. It also seems hard to believe considering the gloomy weather. I am really intrigued to find out more about what makes Denmark the happiest country in the world. I have really begun to appreciate their wide spread use of bikes but I am also intimidated by their biking as well. I am intimidated because everyone that I have seen biking has been on a mission and positive of the route they are taking to get to their destination. Since I have only been here for three days I have to use Google Maps to get everywhere. I am afraid the Danes will run me over when I have to check my phone to see where I am going so I still haven’t rented a bike due to this fear.

I am really excited to be here and have already fallen in love with the beauty of this city. From making friends at bars to exploring the city with classmates, I have begun to feel comfortable here and am excited to tackle the difficult project ahead of us in this beautiful country.

Everyone Thinks I Am Danish

At almost every store I go into, at every restaurant I walk to, and even in the elevators, everyone speaks to me in Danish.
I know Danish is the official language of Denmark, but it seems most of my friends are not being regularly spoken to in Danish. However, it seems that I am everywhere I go.
I suppose it is the combination of my blonde hair and dark clothing that makes people believe I am a local, but alas, I have never been to the country before. I would rather fit in than stick out.
Unfortunately, the lack of Danish language knowledge makes me feel helpless and dumb.
Not only do I have no idea how to respond when people begin speaking to me in the language, but I also cannot read anything that has been written on advertisements, menus, and even water bottles. I have almost bought sparkling water rather than still water multiple times because quite honestly, I can’t tell the difference in their Danish words. As if I knew what the Danish words were in the first place.
I feel so much better knowing that most of the people here speak English as well, but when I left the city of Copenhagen, it was not quite the same. I tried to order an ice cream cone and they had no clue what I meant when I said “waffle cone” and “rainbow sprinkles.” It was like I was speaking a foreign language to them. Probably because I was.
I would really like to learn Danish, but it is so hard going into a country and knowing absolutely nothing about the language, then suddenly being immersed into it. They say it is easier to learn a language when you are in the country, but how can I learn the language when I have no base? It is like running on uneven sidewalks; I do not know how to begin controlling my footing.
However, the majority of the people have been very friendly, despite my lack of understanding of their language. Many people speak in perfect English, which makes communication much easier.
As a person who has rarely left the United States, I am not used to being the one unable to speak the native tongue. This has been an incredibly eye opening experience, seeing things from another perspective. Instead of being in the majority for languages, I am in the minority. However, because of the way I appear, people still believe I am in the majority. I am not upset they assume I am Danish, it simply makes communicating that much harder and more embarrassing. The look of confusion and horror I likely give off when someone speaks to me in Danish is mortifying, and I am sure they think I am just another dumb, uncultured American who came to Denmark without knowing Danish.
I hope to begin picking up some Danish phrases throughout my time here. I have found a link with some useful Danish phrases and their pronunciation. I hope they will help me successfully let the people know that I am not actually Danish.

 

 

http://www.omniglot.com/language/phrases/danish.php

Exercise Options Abound

Through the various incarnations of #wlucsr, our students have maintained their preferred exercise routine or found a new one. In the course of a typical day, students spend much more time on foot and/or on bike than I think they do when on campus. Such is life in Copenhagen.

Scandi Six: Copenhagen Running Routes

Beyond that, some find a gym. Many maintain their usual morning or afternoon run. For the latter group (or for those looking to start a new jogging routine), here are some possible routes, most of them easily accessible from Danhostel.

 

On Uneven Ground

View from the Langebro Bridge at night

I’ve never claimed to be graceful, but it seems that Copenhagen has amplified that issue. Cobblestone streets, uneven bike lanes, steps up and down and of irregular size, all tripping hazards aimed at bringing me to my knees. Being in a new place seems to put you on uneven footing, making navigation and even walking a challenge. Luckily, Copenhagen seems to move a bit slower and I definitely feel more relaxed than I anticipated.

Copenhagen seems to move just a little bit slower, especially for a major metropolitan city. My first experience in Europe was this February, in the city of Paris. I was surprised how much slower the pace of the city was, but the crowds and the noise were prolific. Foreign tourists filled the city, creating a cacophony of sounds and cameras flashing, and crowds galore. I was told this was Paris’ least busy time of the year but I often found it hard to move through the crowds in my arrondissement. Copenhagen, on the other hand, has been quiet, peaceful, and very orderly, if not predictable.  The Danes definitely make more of an effort to keep quiet in public spaces, as the roar of our group appears to have been disruptive on multiple occasions. Everyone seems to move slower here too, either planning their time more effectively or simply not feeling the need to rush.  I seemed to be outpacing most of the locals, but I am always feeling the need to rush. Rushing around is typical for the American cities I am accustomed to, and more of what I expected for the major city. Where there does seem to be rushing is the bike lane, with individuals whirring around in a methodical yet death-defying manner. Being entirely incompetent on a bicycle, it’s terrifying but everyone I have seen has been laser focused on the road ahead of them and given the quantity of bikes I have seen, have yet to witness an accident. This is where the order seems to come into play, where everyone seems to follow the rules and ensure the city is running like Swiss clockwork. Everyone seems orderly in their walk and their composition, and the tourists and visitors are easily identifiable by the natives. Uniformity among the natives seems to be key and one can quickly tell a Dane from the foreigners.   Many of the foreigners are a mixed bunch, lacking primarily the uniform of dark, solid colored clothing. American cities are so much about individuality and dressing a way that represents yourself, versus a dark uniform which is so popular in European cities. European cities are certainly different than what I expected, but having only experienced two, I have a lot to learn.

Copenhagen surprises have been plentiful yet my first few days have felt comfortable and relaxing. As work begins and we are baptized by fire, I am sure I will have plenty more discoveries about what this Scandinavian paradise has to offer. Although, as much as I hope I will acclimate, I was told that foreigners are never fully acclimated to Danish culture. I will be sure to report back.