The Haunting Smell of Smoke

(PS Tried to upload a video to share the excitement after FC København’s first goal, but it would not work. I guess a picture will suffice. )

One thing that I didn’t notice during my last visit here was how the smell of smoke is everywhere and it permeates everything. But just to clarify, it isn’t that people here smoke everywhere, but rather there are specific locations and times where smoking is a common social act. However, the smoking is heavy enough during those times to the point where the smell of smoke clings to my hair and clothing and refuses to leave.

When Emily and I attended our first Alka Superliga (the Danish soccer/football league) on Sunday to watch FC København play FC Midtjylland at the Telia Parken Stadium, I was very excited and caught up in the excitement of the chanting and cheering. Even though, we could not understand a single word of the crowd’s cheering, we had quite a bit of fun. Eventually it got cold and the crowd become rowdier, but we took it all in stride.

However, one thing that neither of us could shake off was the casual smoking by members of the crowd. All around us, we saw people lighting up cigarettes throughout the game. I was shocked by the fact that people could smoke in the stadium. Perhaps it is a common practice elsewhere, but I had never seen smoking in a stadium before. Although the stadium was not indoors, there was quite a few flammable items in the area – the grass, the cardboard holders of Carlsberg beer and paper napkins, just to name a few. Also, second-hand smoking is usually a health concern for people. Given that there were people of all ages and filled stands, I was surprised that there were not stricter regulations on smoking in the stadium. I cannot recall such heavily smoking from the last time I was at the Telia Parken Stadium, which was to see a friendly match two years ago. However, the crowd was also far smaller than the one this time.

As a non-smoker, I am very sensitive and have a low tolerance for the smell of cigarettes and the smoke. The cold air and the smoke was a brutal combination for my lungs. After getting back to Danhostel, I found my coat and hair smelling like smoke. Furthermore, our experiences at the stadium were not the only place where smoking was common. There have been mornings where our floor in Danhostel smelt like smoke (despite it being a non-smoking floor!).

Based upon personal experiences, smoking in the United States tends to be in places more secluded from public spaces and large crowds. However, I did not expect to be so sensitive to the smoke, given that I had grown up in China during a period of time when smoking in public was more widely accepted. Perhaps the smell of smoke is something you become acclimated to and I have lost that after living in the United States for three years? I wonder if the smell of smoke is something I will become used to after four weeks in Copenhagen… ask me again at the end of this trip!

A Casual Sunday Afternoon Soccer Match

On Sunday afternoon, Hermione and I traveled across town to watch an FC Copenhagen soccer match. I played soccer in high school, so I was familiar with the sport and its large, popular presence over here in Europe. Back home, soccer does not have as large of a presence. Sure, we have Major League Soccer, which consists of teams from across the country, and yes, we do get rowdy and boisterous every time the USA participates in the Summer Olympics and The World Cup. However, I knew walking into the stadium that I was about to experience something unique.

As we walked through security, I could hear the crowd roaring and the “booming” of the music blaring throughout the stadium. We found some seats in our section (standing room only, yet ironically enough they had seats in this section…) and immediately had Danish chants flooding our ears. Do I have any idea what they were chanting? Absolutely not. Did that stop me from yelling random grunts and sounds because I wanted to chant too? Nope.

The atmosphere was electric. FC Copenhagen scored the first goal of the game at the seven minute mark and the entire stadium erupted. I could not help but scream and jump too; I had no personal connection to the team, but the excitement and energy from the Danish fans was contagious.

While the fans were great, the stadium was very impressive. I have been to a few Columbus Crew matches in the States, however FC Copenhagen’s stadium seemed to have more “personality”. What I mean by this is that there were pictures of fans hanging on the walls in the stadium. In our section, there were giant still-photos of fans decked out in all black, visibly cheering and showing their excitement for their team.

Naturally, the Carlsberg brand, had sponsorship everywhere. To me, that was one of the neatest aspects of the stadium. A Copenhagen-based company supporting their local soccer club. I understand Carlsberg is a massive company, yet I could not help but think that being the lead sponsor is a great way for them to keep a personal presence in the Copenhagen community.

Ultimately, when the final whistle blew, FC Copenhagen came out victorious by a score of 3-1. On our way out of the stadium, we stopped by the club shop to take a gander at the merchandise. That shop had everything. Does your kid want an FC Copenhagen themed birthday party? Good thing the shop has themed plates, cups, napkins, cupcake holders, and any other item you could want. Back to school shopping? Why not get some Club pencils and pens. Of course, the shop was filled with team sponsored Adidas gear. My favorite article of clothing was the little kid jerseys, simply because I thought they were adorable.

Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my first European soccer match. Additionally, if you are wondering what it is like to watch a soccer game with me, please see below some remarks I made throughout the game.

“I hope we are seated with the rowdy crowd. I love me some good old-fashioned, sports-loving rowdiness.”

“I really like the neon socks of the purple team…oh wait those are the ‘bad guys’ just kidding I don’t like them anymore GO COPENHAGEN!”

“Booooooooooooooo! Yeah, yeah booooo I have no idea why I’m booing but boooooo!”

“Uh oh, man down. Oh wait, two guys are down” (players start shoving each other) “Hermione, if there is a crowd-clearing brawl we are going down there and joining.”

“GGGGGOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!”